Montecassino

Up early, Enzo's computer is playing the chanting of monks from the abbey of Montecassino, a signal to us that Enzo has our day planned.

The day is cold and we can see snow capping the mountain top of Orlandi from where we sit drinking our morning coffee.  We have heard from Enzo's nephew Filippo, that roads and railways north of Rome are shut (his normal 45 minutes trip home from work last night took 12 hours).  However, we decide to go as planned and I will paint a picture of our journey by pen.

As we leave the house and descend towards the sea we procede along the shoreline of Formia thinking how lucky we are that our home comes complete with a mountain backdrop and a Mediterranean vista.  We turn inland, eastward toward Minturno and climb steadily until Alsonia which is to our right.  Alsonia is one of the many ancient villages built unbelievably on a mountain ridge.  We are travelling within the Aurunci mountain range and feel small and rather insignificant against natures wonders.  We round a bend to see the Abbey of Montecassino directly before us rising above the mists that gently blanket the valley below.  At this point we are at the same elevation as the abbey and Enzo mentions that were we birds, we would only be 5 miles away from our destination. 

Some 15 miles later we drop into the outskirts of the city of Cassino.  It is at this point that we are able to see the road zigzagging towards the Abbey miraculously built atop The Mount of Cassino.  The city itself is a very pretty, vibrant and afluent town and we reflect upon how history would have been written differently for Cassino, had the abbey not been built.

As we wind our way towards the abbey we cannot avoid stopping at the first available spot to gaze upon the beauty of the mist-filled valley below with it's meeting of man and nature.

Where man and nature meet

Reaching the car park, the sheer majesty that is the abbey of Montecassino is immediately visible for all to see.

Arriving at the abbey of Montecassino

We pay the 3 euros to parked the car, then follow the cobbled path beyond high wrougt iron gates, passing under an archway into the inner courtyards of the abbey.  It is here that you are unable to fathom the depth of drive and imagination of Saint Benedict and his vision for the abbey way back in the year 529 AD.

Enzo tells us that the Sunday Mass has begun so we make our way to the basilica.  Slowly swinging open a large oak door, we enter the nave tand are immediately enveloped in the fragrance of incense and the melodic chanting of prayer. We take our place at the back to pause, this gives us a moment to explore the lavish decor often found in churches, basilicas and chapels across Italy.

Adorned in golden cherubs, frescos and decorative marbelling associated with its original baroque style, Montecassino basilica continues to be in a constant state of restoration.  Notably there are areas upon the ceiling waiting to receive their frescos.  Also notable are the number of young people who have come to receive communion.

Sunday Mass at Montecassino

As Montecassino stands today one can be forgiven for thinking that it stands just as it did in 529.  In fact the abbey has been rebuilt no less than 3 times. 

529  The abbey was built

577  Destroyed by The Longobardi from the north

883  Destroyed by The Saraceni from the south

1349  Destroyed by earthquake including many cities south of Rome

February 1944  Destroyed

Montecassino WWII Battle Timeline

During World War II 1944, the abbey became a German stronghold and a target for allied bombs.  Most of the complex was devistated including the lavish baroque church but the walls remained and the abbey stood for 3 months before falling to the allies.  The adjoining war cemetaries commemorate the 30,000 soldiers killed; Polish, French, Canadians, Americans, New Zealanders, English, Moroccans, Germans, Italians, Indians and Algerians.  

From the original building, and up until the 8th century, Montecassino became an important centre of learning.  By the 11th century it had become one of the richest monasteries in Europe and today stands as the mother church of the Benedictine Order and a centre of medieval art, housing a Botticelli nativity scene and paintings by Annigoni, the most important of which is The Glory of St. Benedict fresco.  This magnificant fresco measures 40 metres square and is above the doorway of the basilica facing the alter beyond.

La Gloria di San Benedetto

Many other major artworks are housed here including a Botticelli nativity scene.

Botticelli's 'Nativita'

The 'Nativita' by Botticelli was presented to the Abbey by the Masi di Montecatini family in a ceremony on December 23rd, 2006.  Abbot Bernard describes the vacuum left and later filled by the generosity of Mr. Cross (excuse us, the translations were a little difficult to follow).  From what we understand, Mr. Cross presented the painting following the death of his wife Mrs. Teresa Cross, who was a devoted follower of the teachings of St. Benedict and the history of Montecassino. 

Abbot Bernard recounts the abbey's ups and downs and how the monastery has often had to record the destruction, loss or theft of precious works of art.  The destruction of the monastery in 1349 following the earthquake, damaged the church and its art treasures and medieval buildings.  During the Neapolitan Revolution of 1799 the French troops of General Championnet did not fail to destroy and plunder.  A Caravaggio and Raphael have consequently disappeared forever.

Finally on the 15th February in 1944, he wrote "it was one of the most tragic and painful pages of the history for the Abbey.  However, the donation of the 'Nativita', fits into the current affection for the house of St Benedict", concluded Abbot Bernard.

Further reading:

Cassino