Visiting the Vatican

Part I

by Enzo Ardovini

In Rome the artisans' workshops are opening from the break of dawn.  The traders also open their shops quite early in the morning, putting their merchandise on display.  The chariots are traveling through the narrow streets making a terrible noise, and what a crowd in the streets!

In the morning the teachers, in the night the bakers, all day long the boiler-makers, the money-changer striking coins with Nero's minting dye, a Spanish gold beater hitting on a stone, while followers of the Goddess of War Bellona are out shouting as if they are possessed. It’s impossible to have rest or to live in Rome.  At midday Romans go home for lunch.  The children have been at school all day, except for a short lunch break during which they returned home too.  Later in the day those that can, will go to the thermal baths, the only meeting place in a city of about one million inhabitants.  At sunset when the baths are closed, everyone will return home for dinner. Among the crowds traveling home will be those that have been to the circus or theatre. Dinner is marking the end of the day for the Roman citizen.

“Enzo, I think that it’s amazing just how much you can remember of when you were a boy…  which one is you?  And did you know that it was the custom in Ancient Rome for men to place their right hand on their testicles when taking an oath. It's where the word 'testimony' comes from."

 And here we are some 2000 years later and not much has changed, except that I have a new wife who says she prefers me in a toga.

“Susan! I didn’t write that!”

“Enzo if you want me to check your spelling then there is a price to be paid, but don’t let me interrupt you…you were saying?”

 
My story takes us to a time in my life when being surrounded by people and places that made me feel safe was important.  The year is 2007 and it’s late August, Sue is packing our bags for the two month journey to Rome. The forecast here calls for heavy rain in the afternoon which is a typical summer day on the Space Coast here in Florida. While Sue finishes packing ‘Tigger,’ I go to the car rental agent to pick up a car for the trip to Orlando International Airport.

We walked in to the waiting room of the hospital and it looked as if we're moving in with them for the month. Because we had no other place to leave our luggage and our flight from JFK to London was at 6:30pm, we had brought it along with us.  I explained to the nurse at the desk that whatever they had in mind to do to me needed to be finished by 3:30pm because I needed to be at JFK by 4:30pm.  I was to be tested for any abnormalities with my lungs... since I was at The World Trade Center during the days after the attack, I inhaled toxic fumes and their job was to make sure that my lungs were not affected. Hummmm...

"Didn't you ask them if they could help you find that missing brain cell of yours Enzo?"

"They didn't seem to be too interested...."

 Ok so here we are and it's now 3:30pm when the nurse finally tells me that everything is "Okydoecky," and they will see me again in 6 months.  It was now time to re-enter the streets of Manhattan in search of a cab. Sue was standing on the sidewalk gently waving her arm as if she was saying goodbye to an old friend, hummm I knew that that was not going to get us to the airport by 4:30pm. Having lived in New York for nearly 40 years I knew a trick or two about getting the attention of a cab: walk in the street in front of an incoming cab and stand there until he stops. Luckily we still were in front of the hospital, so if the cab didn't stop we didn't have far to go.  He stopped, barely...and I waved at Sue to get in the cab before some other new Yorker zipped into it  and off we went to the airport.

"Actually I accidentally pushed Enzo into the street in front of an oncoming cab who only stopped because he didn't want any damage done to his car. Enzo I wish you would get this story right!"

 
Once we reached London for our connecting flight, Rome was only another four hours away. The plane made its way to Ciampino Airport, gliding like an eagle over The Apennines Mountains (the Little Alps). As we made our approach, I said to Sue "welcome home."

 We got our bags and within minutes were aboard our train to Mom's house in Ceccano, a small town 30 minutes south of Rome.

"Enzo I know you couldn't wait to get there, but in the real world we had to wait for a coach to get us to the station where we waited for so long, those espressos from that little café nearly killed us!  Enzo, can I tell them about the time I lost my knickers carrying a pile of bags whilst climbing Park Street in Bristol because I didn't have enough money for a taxi or the bus.  My knicker elastic went and..."

"No...but you can tell ME about that later."

 
We arrived home and Mom was out getting her hair done. We made ourselves at home and put our clothing away then started dinner for the three of us.  We were only going to be with Mom for one week, after that we would be staying in an apartment just outside the Vatican City walls.

During the coming week we visited all friends and family member in the immediate area of Ceccano and Supino. It was then time to pack up and drive to Rome to take up residence in our holiday apartment. We booked it through Vaction Rental By Owner, at www.VRBO.com and were not disappointed at all to find that it was so close to the Vatican walls, at times I believe we could hear the Pope snore, or was that Sue...

"I don't snore Enzo, but there are a great many things that you do in your sleep I could mention if you like..."

"No..."

 
Within days of getting ourselves comfortable in our Roman apartment our Mom from Bristol (England) arrived.  It was the first time for Mom Betty to be visiting Rome, so it was special. She certainly kept Sue busy trying to seek out every Michelangelo, Bernini and Caravaggio in the city, not an easy task. And I have three of Sues old shoes to prove that they did do it.

"And my Mum has a map which she coloured in after every excursion to prove it too Enzo... and that's where all my shoes went!  Enzo we even stumbled upon the little church of Santa Maria della Vittoria where I thought my mum was going to pass out.

At the end of the isle above the main alter is Bernini's 'Ecstasy of St. Teresa' which has since been made famous in that film 'Angels and Demons.'  She saw the film before me and was so excited, she couldn't wait to tell me!  Oh and that melting corpse Enzo, give me a moment to find the photograph of that..."

Anyway here we are in Rome, the eternal city. Although I was not born in Rome I spent my teenage years here and those stories will be for another article, but for now let me tell you my Pope story.

"Finally Enzo.... I'm just saying..."

 
Sue and Mom Betty both know that I am practically a native of Rome, so they assumed that the Papa and I are good friends...but that's not exactly true. However I am now under pressure to arrange seeing the Pope in one of his weekly audiences. Humm I thought that would be quiet easy.  All I need to do is call the Vatican operator and ask to speak to the Pope, then ask him for three tickets. How difficult could it be? Well it appears that it's very difficult to get to see the Papa, and trying to phone him was getting me nowhere.

That night at dinner I knew that I had to break the news to Sue and Mom Betty that the visit to the Pope was a no go... I thought I would tell them over dinner at our favorite restaurant, the one just downstairs from the apartment, outdoor seating with a view of the outdoor market - the one just around the corner.

The walk to the restaurant was like ‘walking the plank' one step at a time and seeing the end of the wood, knowing that the the way would be DOOOOOWWNNNNN.  As we neared the restaurant my cell phone rang.  Answering the phone now would delay my demise I thought, "Pronto" (hello) I said. On the other end was a familiar voice. It was my Cousin Vinny, also known as Vinny Two-Toes, although I'm not sure why he's known under that name, because his actual name is Gianfranco.  Anyway, he has an olive oil business and delivers to some of the people within the Vatican walls. I explained to Cousin Vinny my predicament and he offered to help.  He said "Enzo, tomorrow go to the Swiss Guards' office and the tickets will be there waiting."

My night was saved, I didn't need to say anything about what had just happened other then say to Sue, that cousin Vinny said "hello" and couldn't wait to meet her at the reception on Sunday.

Over dinner we all spoke about the churches that Sue and her mum had visited during the day, and the plans that they had for Tuesday - the following day.  They were planning a trip to St. Peters Church, so I suggested that we could all go together and explained that on the way we could stop at the Swiss Guard post in the Vatican to collect our tickets for Wednesday‘s audience with the Pope.  I was very proud of being able to suggest that I had connections at the Vatican, but I wasn't about to reveal the identity.  That will remain a secret, just between you and me.

"...and me now Enzo! I won't tell mum."

The next morning at breakfast we started to plan the day, exchanging ideas.  Sue and Mom Betty were planning their day out starting with a visit to the Sistine Chapel, followed by a climb to the top of the cupola and then on to see the basilica.  Hummm, well that sounds like a full day so I said "why don't we do this, I'll leave now and go to stand in line for the Vatican Museums (Sistine Chapel), and you two go to the Swiss Guard post to pick up the tickets to see the Papa.  Just say that Enzo Ardovini sent you and they are in an envelope with my name on it."

One hour later while I was still in line, I see Sue and Mom Betty walking towards me, but they didn't seem too happy.  As they got nearer to me they said "no tickets..."

A little perplexed I responded "what do you mean no tickets, did you say they were for Enzo...?"

"yep." said Sue. "They said ‘we have no idea who Enzo is......'"

At this point I was looking for any excuse to get out of the line to call Cousin Vinny and find out what had happened. No luck he was not answering his phone.  Now what was I going to tell them?  How am I going to explain that I don't have a connection inside the Vatican?  How am I going to explain that the Papa and I are not friends....?  So I slowly explained to them that I was sure there was a logical explanation..  Somehow we will straighten it all out before tomorrow's audience.

Take the a virtual tour of St. Peters

The next day the weather promised to be perfect for an outdoor audience, so I suggested ... lets do all we had planned for the day and tomorrow we would head out to St peters Square as if we had the tickets and try again at the Swiss Guard gate.  So we started the day at the Sistine Chapel and it was a serene and fulfilling visit.  Michelangelo's along with all the other works that cover the ceilings and walls of the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel are breathtaking. 

Two hours later we reached the end of the Vatican museums and were all thrilled from our near-mystical experience.  We walked the spiral stairway to the basement of the basilica and as we exited we saw a small gate to the side.  It was the entrance to the Cupola.  We paid our entrance fee and were presented with two choices: climb the stairs or take the elevator.  We chose to climb.  At first the stairs were of normal width and length, but after about 5 minutes climbing, they began to narrow and lead us into an interior walkway which run around the ceiling of the Cupola.  As first-time visitors we had no idea that we would be rewarded with such a beautiful vision of the Basilica below.

View of the Bisilica from the Cupola pathway

The brick dome is 138 feet in diameter 390 feet above the floor of the chapel below.  An amazing structure with amazing details and amazing artwork.  In the mids of this engineering marvel people strolled as if they were walking along an avenue on a warm Sunday afternoon, slow and silent. It is here that you can touch the mosiac walls and marvel at their beauty, detail and the very fact that you can stand on this narrow path where so many years before someone stood to place each exquisite tile.

We were unable to rest there as continuing crowds gathered to usher us on ever further forward and upward. The near windowless stairway wound it's way around and around the outer wall of the Cupola. We continued on the ever-narrowing stone stairs with no time to stop since hundreds of people were behind us on route to the top. We were a little concerned for Sue's Mom - so be prepared should you decide to take the same adventure. Once you start to climb these stairs, and there are hundreds of them, don't expect to stop and rest: the crowds behind you won't necessarily be patient!  But once you have got into a rhythm you will eventually reach the top (since there is nowhere else to go), exit through a door leading to the roof overlooking St. Peter's Square - simply spectacular! So if claustrophobia didn't get you on the way up, vertigo may still be in with a chance...

From here you can walk long the little path running along the outside of the Cupola and enjoy a full 360 degree view of the Vatican City and Rome, or just sit on one of the stone overhangs and bask in the sun.

We make no apologises for showing you so many photographs, but pictures do speak a million words and we really do want to share our experience with you.