Sometimes in life you get an opportunity to learn a lesson in cultural difference that makes you stop and think. For example, during a trip to Agerola with Congressman Bob Borski and his family, we were able to glimpse a day in the life of everyday people, going about their everyday business. These opportunities were made possible not only due to the hospitality of the community but also the Agerola pride that is evident in everything they produce.
The bakery of Ruocco di Acunto Teodolinda has been working their legendary bread oven since 1880. From it they pull their biscotti and taralli. The process of making the doughs may have been mechanised in parts but essentially the recipe is just as Nonna directs, and the forming of the final product remains hands on.
The name 'Taralli' is believed to have originated from a combination of the Latin 'torrerre' meaning toast and the French 'toral' meaning dryer.
Matilde Serao, who wrote "The Belly of Naples", describes the famous "warehouses", the popular areas near the harbor, teeming with an undernourished population. The Belly of Naples was full of people, it was here that by the end of 700, they began to make bagels.
Where there is almost nothing, nothing is destroyed, and everything is created.
Even the bakers would not dream of throwing away the "sfriddo", the scraps of dough with which they had just prepared the bread to bake.
To these scraps of dough was added a little 'nzogna' (pork fat: Italian, lard, pork fat) and lots of pepper. Then with their skilled hands the dough was reduced to two strips. The strips were then coiled to form the shape of a doughnut and it was then put into the oven together with the bread.
Making Agerola Tarallini
Ruocco di acunto teodolina, Via Dei Campi, 5 Bomerano Agerola
From these humble beginnings, the tarallaro recipes were adapted to include an almond which was pushed into the dough.
The term "tarallini' is the variety from Puglia.
The tarallino Pugliese has spread throughout Italy and its appearance is very different from its Neapolitan cousin, smaller and smoother, it is made with olive oil, and no almonds. Aromatic fennel seeds and/or chilli are often added.
Many forms of tarallini are small, which has made them highly suitable as an aperitif. It should be remembered that, ironically, Italy, which up until not many years ago was hungery, is currently the world's leading consumer of aperitifs.
We have just asked the help of our friend Enza over the question of using yeast in our recipe for tarallini. Some recipes call for yeast and others don't. However, we wanted to get as close to the original Neopolitan recipes as possible and since the taralli were born from bread dough, we have included yeast.
Our recipe will make up to 24 small, bite-size Fennel and Pepper Taralli but once you have mastered the technique, you can adapt it to make any shape or size you like:
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Ingredients:
350 grams all purpose flour
150 grams high-gluten durum flour (bread flour)
20 grams dried yeast
10 grams salt
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground, black pepper
125 ml olive oil, at room temperature
200 ml white wine, at room temperature
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
2 tablespoons olive oil for the boiling water
In a mixing bowl, combine the flours, salt, yeast, olive oil, wine, pepper and fennel seeds
Knead the dough for a few minutes, until the dough is smooth and firm
Leave the dough in the mixing bowl, cover with a kitchen towel and leave it to rest for up to 30 minutes
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface
Divide the dough into pieces of approximately 30 grams each
To shape each taralle like Nonna, roll each piece of dough into a circle, then roll into a cigar (If the dough is a little dry, a quick spritz of water with a fine spray bottle helps it roll more easily, and the ends stick to each other.)
Now form your taralli by bring the ends together, giving them a pinch to secure
Cover the taralli and leave them alone for up to 1 hour, they will not look as though they have risen very much but don't panic!
Meanwhile, place two oven racks in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F / 180 C
Bring a large pot of water to a simmer and add the 2 tablespoons of olive oil
Place a cooling rack on the counter with a towel underneath it.
Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.
Boil the taralli in batches of three or four for about one minute, until they float and puff a little.
Remove them to the cooling rack with a slotted spatula.
When they have drained, arrange them on the paper-lined baking sheets.
Once all the taralli are boiled, bake for 25 - 30 minutes, until very dry, rotating the baking sheets about halfway through the baking.
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