|
Christmas in Naples – warts ‘n’ all
This may be difficult for you to imagine but during the month of December, the streets in the Spanish quarter of Naples are filled with people shopping for items just like this – warts ‘n’ all!
The Christmas season in Italy begins on December 24th and continues on until Epiphany on the 6th of January, which Enzo tells me is referred to as ‘Little Christmas’. It’s on Epiphany when gifts are exchanged, so Christmas Day is a rather low key affair. For Italians the most important symbol of Christmas isn’t ‘Babo Natale’ (Father Christmas). It is the scene of the nativity (il presepe).
In homes all over Italy (and in Enzo’s sisters house in New York) you will find a nativity scene occupying the most important spot in the house. Don’t expect a simple scene of Jesus, Mary, Joseph and the 3 kings either. Many Italian nativity scenes will include all sorts of less obvious objects. All these figures and miniatures are bought together to make a vibrant scene, perhaps in keeping with the events in Bethlehem on Christmas Eve.
|
| If you are looking to stock or build your particular nativity scene, then a trip to Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples during the Christmas period is absolutely necessary. Christmas items are on offer throughout the year and there appear to be no rules as to what your nativity scene could contain. Via San Gregorio Armeno is filled on both sides with shops selling everything that you could possible imagine and more. Tiny terracotta figurines, windmills, hay bails, fruit and bread baskets, battery-operated figures making pasta, political personalities, footballers and to complete your nativity kit, a whole town to arrange them in. Amazingly and most interestingly, you can watch artisans making figures and buildings from scratch from as early as late September as they prepare for the Christmas rush. |
 |
|
Over half a million tourists and shoppers will find themselves on Via San Gregorio Armeno every year. In fact if you decide to visit a few weeks before Christmas Day, you’ll discover that everyone seems to arrive on the same day! Wall to wall people! It certainly is an experience and you could be forgiven for missing the church and monastery of San Gregoria Armeno.
If you do happen to be walking upwards along the Via San Gregoria Armeno, keep an eye open for a series of arches to your left. Climb the few steps, make your way across the covered piazza towards the large doors. Open them carefully, quietly, respectfully and take a moment away from the hustle and bustle to sit. The church dates back to the sixteenth century and be prepared to have your breath taken away by the frescoes, decorative ceilings, walls and the marble fountain in the centre of the cloister. If you are lucky you will hear the nuns singing mass.
|
|
|
|
With all this excitement, your trip to Naples could never be complete unless you get a pizza. Naples pizza is the best in Italy and the Pizzeria I Decumani is one of the most popular places to be at lunchtime. So we recommend continuing to pick your way to the top of the street where you’ll find it just across the road on your left. Be sure to get there early otherwise you will never get a seat. We were the first to arrive and the place was full just moments after we got our table.
|
|
|
Wander the streets, grab an espresso and soak it all in. Amongst the moving mopeds and cars, the shop stalls and hundreds of people, you might catch a glimpse of someone darting past you wearing an apron, carrying a tray of espresso’s above their head en route to deliver it!
Naples is unique, vibrant and stuffed full of character.
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
So the next time you happen by Italy around Christmas time, make your way to the Spanish quarters. Also, try to visit the National Museum of San Martino which is home to the most famous nativity scene of all.
The Presipio Cuciniello is one of the largest nativity scenes in the world with nearly 700 recreated pieces dating back to the 18th century. You can stop by to see it at any time of the year. Who knows, the whole trip might even encourage you to start your own nativity scene and when you do … we want photographs!!
|
|
|
... for your brain healthy, Mediterranean lifestyle
